ARCTIC NORWAY – Land of the Eider

This building in Vardo sums up Arctic Norway. Tony Davison©

Day 1 – After a 5:15am start from home, on Friday 12th April 2013, Glyn, Mike, Richard and myself caught our Scandinavian Airlines flight from London Heathrow to Oslo, we knew there would be a downside though – we had a five hour wait in Oslo for our internal connecting flight to Kirkenes, a small town on the southern shores of Varangerfjord. On arrival at Kirkenes we collected our hire car and arrived at our destination hotel for the night at around 7pm.

Our Hotel, The Rica Arctic at Kirkenes for the 12th & 16th April – The silver VW was our car for the duration of the holiday.Tony Davison©

Kirkenes Harbour, Arctic Norway – 12th April 2013. – Tony Davison©

DAY 2 – An early start on Saturday morning (13th April) and we spent most of the day in the famous Pasvik Valley. We decided to head for the Birkhusky B&B bird feeding station and other nearby garden bird feeders. This decision proved to be very disappointing with only a few Great Tits, several Arctic Redpolls and a possible Siberian Tit that proved to be very elusive!, also a Red Squirrel in the garden of the B&B. Our decision to head off and search for other garden feeders in the Pasvik, that Glyn had visited during previous trips, paid off. After a visit to a local Nature Park, where we had 30+ Snow Bunting, Lesser Spotted Woodepecker and numerous Arctic & Mealy Redpolls, we eventually found a feeder with a stunning male Pine Grosbeak in attendance. After checking with the owners of the housefor access, we then spent the next three hours in the garden. Siberian Jay, several Siberian Tit, 2 Pine Grosbeak, Northern Willow Tit and several Northern Bullfinch were all seen at this feeder. Absolutely brilliant..

Nature Park in the Pasvik Valley – Tony Davison©

Typical Birch Forest area in Pasvik Valley. Tony Davison©

Northern Red Squirrel at Birkhusky B& B Feeding Station – 13th April 2013 – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Male Pine Grosbeak – Pasvik Valley – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Siberian Jay – Pasvik Valley – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Siberian Tit – Pasvik Valley – Tony Davison©

Late afternoon we set off to make our way to Båtsfjord, with a good 2 – 3 hour drive ahead of us. We had decided to spend one night at the Polar Hotel in Båtsfjord and get up very early to spend some time in the now famous floating photo hides. The drive over the mountains was very picturesque with some stunning snow scenes. Early evening at Båtsfjord was really beautiful and this was to be the most northerly place I had ever been.

The main highway road to Båtsfjord just before the mountain road – Tony Davison©

Evening sunset on the moutain road to Båtsfjord – 13th April 2013 – Stunning colours – Tony Davison©

Above three images – Båtsfjord, Arctic Norway, Saturday evening 13th April – Tony Davison©

DAY 3 – The Floating Hides at Båtsfjord (14th April) – Orjhan is the guy who organises the trips to his floating hides. It is not a cheap trip but then nothing is cheap in Norway but the experience is well worth the expense. He can be contacted on (www.arctictourist.no). Orjhan collected us from the hotel at 4:30am and we made our way to the hides on a small zodiac boat. We spent the next three hours photographing Steller's, several King and plenty of Common Eiders. Unfortunately we were at the end of the Eider season and most of the King Eiders had already dispersed, nevertheless the experience was well worth the effort of getting up early!! A fortnight earlier and there were 10,000 Eiders in the area!! Mind blowing just to think about it..

Highlight of my trip – a stunning male Steller's Eider – Tony Davison©

Above six images – Drake Steller's Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Above three images – Female Steller's Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Drake Steller's Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Drake King Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Female King Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Above three images – Drake Common Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Female Common Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

After our stint in the hide, Orjhan took us for a trip around the harbour and inland waters, looking for more King Eider. Our visit to this wonderful place was a unique experience, I must re-visit next year to witness the so called Vortex of Eiders!!

A nice group of Steller's and one drake King Eider – Båtsfjord – Tony Davison©

Kittiwakes on old shed in Båtsfjord harbour. – Tony Davison©

The next stage of our journey was to head for Vadsø for two nights stay in the Rica Hotel. We made our way back over the mountain road, stopping at Nesseby on route. here we saw plenty of Snow Buntings, Kittiwakes, Purple Sandpiper and a fly over adult White-tailed Sea Eagle.

The beautiful and isolated church at Nesseby – Tony Davison©

Nesseby National Nature Reserve – Tony Davison©

Above two images – Purple Sandpiper – Nesseby – Tony Davison©

Fish Racks, Nesseby – Tony Davison©

Adult Kittiwake – Tony Davison©

The Rica Hotel at Vadsø – Tony Davison©

Day 4 – Vardø and Hornøya Sea Bird Cliffs, (15th April) – We decided to head off to Vardo today in the hope of getting across to Hoynøya Sea Bird Cliffs. The weather was attrocious with heavy snow but by the time we arrived at Vardø, the weather had eased and we were able to make the short journey across to the island. What an incredible place..

Vardø Harbour on arrival 15th April – Tony Davison©

Abovw two images – Kittiwakes at Vardø Harbour – Tony Davison©

Vardø Harbour after returning from Hornøya later in the day on 15th April – Tony Davison©

Fantastic Graffiti Walls at Vardø Harbour – Tony Davison©

1st summer Glaucous Gull – Vardø harbour – Tony Davison©

Stellers Eider – Vardø Harbour – Tony Davison©

A snippet and I mean a snippet of Hornøya Bird Cliff – Tony Davison©

Above six images – Puffin – Hoynøya Island – Tony Davison©

We spent around 2 hours on the sea bird cliffs and after falling through snow up to my waist and needing assistance to get out the snow, crapped on by thousands of sea birds, it was mighty disappointing to have to leave this amazing place. When we arrived back in Vardø we paid a visit to meet up with Tormod Amundsen, the local birder in the area. He kindly allowed us into his garden area so we could photograph a flock of around 60 Snow Buntings that he was feeding. Some stunning birds and great photographic opportunity. Tormod is instrumental in organising the GULLFEST festival in March which celebrates the unique birdlife of Varanger. Tormod can be contacted at www.biotope.no.

Day 5 – The journey back to Kirkenes (16th April) – We left Vadsø after breakfast and made straight for a bird feeding station at Vestre Jakobselv camping, at Lilledalsveien. A few Artic Redpoll were visiting but very little else.

We made a steady journey back to Kirkenes, stopping off and checking the huge Varangerfjord for sea duck. Plenty of Common Eider, Red-breasted Merganser and Steller's Eider. We decided to go back to "our" garden in the Pasvik Valley and spend the rest of the day there. Pine Grosbeak, Siberian Tit, 3 Siberian Jay, Arctic Redpoll, Northern Willow Tit and Bullfinch and a fanbtastic Red Squirrel. So plenty to keep us entertained for the last day.

One of my favourite photos from the trip.

Our final list of bird species was 40, not many but what quality. We travelled 1150 kilometres during 5 days. A stunning place and I can imagine that the weather gets a whole lot worse than we experienced, especially during the prime time for the King Eider, February – March. A massive thanks to Glyn for his company and for organising the trip and suggesting we did it and to Richard and Mike for their company. I had three lifers – Steller's Eider, Siberian Tit & Brünnich's Guillemot. Also thanks go to Tormod Amundsen of Biotope for his advice and his local knowledge and to Orjhan for the Bird Hide.

ARCTIC NORWAY – Land of the Eider

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